秋よ来い!早く来い! というか、早く涼しくなってほしいですね。 着物をガンガン着れる秋、早く来ーい!    毎回「わたどう」の着物が楽しみです。

How to put on “nagajuban” : one piece

“Nagajuban” is an under garment for kimonos.

It has two types, a one-piece and two-piece one.

The one piece “nagajuban” is like a robe.

The two piece “nagajuban” consists of two parts, a top and bottom. 

The attractive points of “juban” is that it has some parts to show even though it is undergarment.

Those parts are “haneri” collar and sleeves.

Some kimono lovers are particular about the detail of “juban”.

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What is “juban”?

Please look at  the photo below.

An one piece garment on the left is called “nagajuban”.

A two piece garment in the middle is called “nibushiki nagajuban” .

An one piece garment with long sleeves on the right is for “furisode”.

Basically, you put on them in a same way.

However there are some small differences according to the age, where you go, when you wear, kinds of “kimono” you wear and so on.

But don’t worry! The knowledge will follow you. Just try it!

Let’s start!

 

juban 3種

 

maikichi

Did you sew “haneri” on the collar and put “erishin” there? If you haven’t done it yet, do it now. The reference is “How to sew “haneri”.

Learning targets

  • How to close the collar properly
  • How to use “munahimo” effectively

If you wear “Nagajuban” properly, you’ ll be able to wear kimono beautifully and comfortably.

 

 

How to put on a one piece “nagajuban”

Center the back seam and make “emon” space

maikichi
Stand straight and look ahead. Keep your posture.

 

1. Put “nagajuban” on. Hold the collar ends equally at the center front. 

 

 

2. Holding the the back seam, move your hands back and forth to center the back seam.

 

 

3. Pull down the back seam and make some space at the nape.

 

maikichi
That’s “emon wo nuku” in Japanese. One of the attractive points of kimono”.

Suitable “emon” space

 This is the “emon” space for daily scenes. Put the fist vertically.
This is the “emon” space for formal events. Put the fist horizontally. It is the same for “furisode”, the most formal kimono worn by unmarried women.

 

maikichi
If you want a wide space for “emon”, firstly you take more space than you want.

 

Close the collar

襦袢の衿合わせ/close the collar

4. Holding the right collar, cover your left breast like wrapping with the right front bodice.

 

 

襦袢の衿合わせ/close the collar

5. Holding the left collar, cover your right breast like wrapping with the left front bodice.

 

maikichi
Wrapping your breasts is very important. If you do so, the breasts will stop the collar getting collapse. Finally you’ll get a beautiful V-shape of the collar.

 

 

Put the collar in place

基本の衿合わせ1Younger women cross the collar on the notch just above the breastbone. You do the same when you wear “nagajuban” for “furisode”. 

基本の衿合わせ2Older women cross the collar below the notch just above the breastbone.

 

 

衿合わせを確認/make sure the collar

6. Do you have a symmetrical triangle on the chest? It is important to be symmetrical when wearing kimono.

 

maikichi
For those with long bob hairstyles, those with short necks, and plump ones, there is a good idea to flatten the collar. The visible part of the neck will increase and your neck line will look sharp. Please look at the following.

 

Tilt the collar

立った衿 /standing collar① Everyone will experience standing collar and  narrowing “Emon”.  Hold the collar and lift it from the underbust position. Do this with both hands at the same time.
衿を持ち上げて横に流す/lift the collar and pull aside② The collar opened. Gently pull the collar aside a little.
手を下げる/slid the hands down③ Slide the hands sideways. 
胸元押さえる/hold the under bust④ Hold the under bust with either hand. Pinch the back center with the other hand.
背中心を引く/pull the back center⑤ Pull down the back center. So the collar comes along the neck. The “emon” will widen. In summer, leave a little more space around the neck. Next, tie “munahimo”. 

Please refer to…

Related

Do you have an experience that you can't make the collar shape you like? It will happen especially when you are putti[…]

 

Tie “munahimo” 

7. While holding the left collar with the right hand, take the center of “munahimo” with the left hand and pass it to the right hand.

 

 

8. Slide the left hand to the side along the under bust and cross the “munahimo” at the back.

 

 

9. Bring the ends to the front and twist one end around the other end twice.

 

 

10. Cross both ends.

 

 

11. Tuck them in and put the wrinkles aside by sliding fingers.

 

 

12. Do the same thing for the back.

 

 

13. If you have some extra fabric on your sides, tuck the back bodice inside the front one, and carefully pull the front one to remove wrinkles. Do it on both sides at the same time.

 

 

14. If the “emon” space gets narrower, hold the waist line with both hands and pull them down at the same time.

 

 

Tie “munahimo” with “emon-nuki”

1. Pass “munahimo” through the hole as the photo above. If you have 2 holes, basically choose the upper one.

 

 

2.After centering the back seam and closing the collar, bring the right “himo” to the front while holding the collar.

 

 

3.While holding the collar and the right “himo”, bring the left “himo” to the front and hold the right with it.

 

 

4.Let the left “himo” go around.

 

 

5.Twist the end twice around the other end, cross them and tuck them at the front. When the “himo” is slippery, tie a half bow knot.

If the above way is difficult for you, there is another way.

Please refer to…

Related

Do you have an experience that you can't make the collar shape you like? It will happen especially when you are putti[…]

 

Wrap “datejime” belt

15. Place the center of “datejime” sash on the upper part of the chest and slide it under breasts.

maikichi
Sliding “datejime” prevents from the collar puffing up and removes wrinkles.

 

16. Cross the sash at the back and pull one side down. 

 

 

17. Fold it up.

 

 

18. Bring the ends to the front and tighten the sash once.

 

maikichi
Inhale and hold the breath and tie a knot. That may be good for you.

 

19. Twist one end around the other end twice, while holding the crossed point firmly not to get loose the sash.

 

 

20. Tighten it, but not too much.

maikichi
Hold the breath and tighten the belt. That may be good for you.

 

21. Cross the ends so as to make the knot flat. 

 

 

22. Tuck the ends in one by one while holding the knot with any fingers. Be sure not to loosen the knot and the sash.

 

 

23. Put the wrinkles aside by sliding fingers.

 

24. Tuck the extra fabric of the back bodice into the front bodice to remove wrinkles.

 

 

25. OK, finished!

 

 

振袖長襦袢着上がり

26. When you wear “nagajuban” for “furisode”, do the same thing.

 

maikichi
“Nagajuban” is the most important foundation. Wearing well or badly decides your kimono appearance.  So please take much time to put on “nagajuban” firstly.

 

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