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How to put on a separate “juban” Maikichi likes

When I was a kimono beginner, I used to use undergarments and accessories provided by a kimono school.

The more I got used to wearing kimono, the more I wanted to try other “juban” and accessories to be suitable for my lifestyle.

There are two types of “juban”, long one and separate one.

The most favorite of all the things I have tried is a separate “nagajuban”, which has two parts.

In Japanese it is called “nibushiki naga-juban.” 

I wear this “juban” pretty frequently.

I’d like to tell you how useful it is.

Please refer to this as one of your choices.

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Separate “juban” is very useful

Once I started wearing the separate “juban”, I felt like wearing it pretty much every time.

Finally my one-piece “nagajuban” were stored in the closet.

Why did I choose separate ones?

Here are reasons.

 

  • Washable

Since it is made of the cotton and polyester, you can wash the whole. Usually “juban” made of silk are not often washed.

Since the “haneri” collar part can be attached and detached with the zipper, you can wash just the sweated part.

 

  •  Detachable collar with “haneri”

You can sew a piece of favorite “haneri” onto the surface of the original collar. You can quickly change it to another detachable collar if necessary.

 

  • Easy adjustable “emon”

You can make “emon” quickly and keep it neat.

 

  • Extended collar

It is so easy to straighten the collar anytime.

 

  • A long “emon-nuki” 

It is so easy to straighten the “emon” anytime.

 

  • Use stretchable belt

You don’t have to use “datejime” and “himo”. You can put it on quickly. .

 

  • Divided two parts, 

You can make a minor adjustment to the length of the skirt part. You can wear only the upper part as “han-juban”. It’s easy to move.

 

 

There are some negative points but they are little things. 

 

  • The hem line of the upper part being visible

Be especially careful with thin kimonos and fold the hem up to the “ohashori” line.

 

  • The juban is a teaching material

It’s expensive. You can buy it if you enter the kimono school.

 

 

 

How to put on a separete juban

The order of wearing

The following is my order of wearing.

 

  1. Bra for kimono
  2. A kind of shape-up pants
  3. Tabi
  4. Lower part of “nagajuban” or “susoyoke” petticoat
  5. Underwear for the skin comfortable (ex, AIRism )
  6. Upper part of “nafajuban”

 

I don’t wear two “susoyoke” because I look fat.

 

 

白と黒の下着

 

White undergarments are mainly for formal and light colored kimonos, and black ones are for casual ones.

When I wear the black undergarments, I wear only the upper juban as “han-juban”. 

(Please refer to the photos below for how to wear it.)

About the shirts, I change the length of the sleeves depending on the season.

I like no padding.

 

So why did I select those items?

Here are reasons.

 

  • I can put it on quickly.
  • Easy to move.
  • The underwear is common with Western clothes, and easy to wash.
  • I can tighten the lower abdomen with the lower part of “juban” or “susoyoke”.

 

Since I was an instructor at a Kimono school, I wore it everyday.

So I selected items so that I can put on quickly and take care easily.

 

The way to put on the lower part of “juban” is the same as “susoyoke” underskirt.

Only the length is different.

The length of the lower part of “juban” is around the ankle.

Please check this out for details.

 

 

 

How to put on the upper part of “juban” with a belt

If you use a belt, choose soft rubber. It is called “waist belt”.

The belt has a loop side and hook side.

You can use a muslin “himo” called “koshihimo” or “munahimo” too.

The way of tying is in common.

 

 

ゴムベルトを衣紋抜きに通す

1. Pass the loop side through a “emon-nuki” hole from left to right .

 

 

2. Hold the collar equally to center the back seam.

 

 

衣紋を抜く

3. Hold the back seam and pull it down to make some space at the nape called “emon”.

 

 

下前を被せる

4. Holding the right collar, cover your left breast like wrapping with the right front bodice.

 

 

上前を被せる

5. Cover your right breast like wrapping with the left bodice, holding the left collar.

 

 

衿合わせを均等にする

6. Make sure the right and left collars are symmetrical.

 

 

衿合わせを確認する

7. Check the position of the intersection of the collar.

 

 

輪を持つ

8. Take the loop side.

 

 

輪を前に持ってくる

9. Put it under the bust.

 

 

左を取る

10. Take the hook side.

 

 

前で交差

11. Cross the belt with the hook side up and bring the hook side to the back.

 

 

フックを掛ける

12. Hook the loop.

 

 

ゴムは二段に分ける

13. Place the single belt under the bust, make 4 fingers space below and place the double belt there. You can use this instead of “datejime”.

 

 

シワを取る

14. Push the back bodice into the front one at the openings called “miyatsuguchi” at the same time. By doing this, you can remove wrinkles on the back.

 

 

 

たてのシワも取る

15. Straighten the back by pulling the “juban” and make the “emon” u-shaped.

 

 

 

衣紋抜きを引く

16. If you want a v-shaped “emon”,  pull down the “emon-nuki”.

Finished!

It took about 50 seconds. Quite quick!

 

The combination of a separate “juban” and “susoyoke” are very comfortable.

So I recommend.

 

 

How to improve “nibushiki juban”

To be detachable

I have two separate “juban” for the three seasons and one for the summer.

Those sleeves are stitched, so I made two of them detachable.

I thought about whether to use Velcro or snaps.

I chose snaps because I had a sad experience that Velcro damaged the “obiage” before. 

*It will be shortened by the diameter of the snap in this case.

And I chose light plastic snaps so that the sleeves don’t droop.

 

 

二部式替え袖改造

 

First, unstitch the arm holes.

Stitch the seam allowance if necessary.

Sew eight snaps evenly on the arm holes.

It will be shortened by the diameter of the snap in this case, so if the sleeves come out from a kimono sleeves, do something as necessary.

For example, stitch the middle of sleeve bottoms to shorten them.

Or you can use safety pins or a double-sided tape for “haneri”.

 

Sew a favorite “haneri” on

Attach your favorite “haner” collar like this.

 

二部式半衿

 

“Shioze” fabric is on the far left, “ro” for summer is in the middle, and pattern printed is on the right.

I use the white collar as it is, but in the formal case I will attach a more elegant “haneri” on that.

Related

"Haneri" or a decorative collar is a strip of fabric. It's about 15 cm x 80 cm. The decorative collar protecting […]

 

Other improvements

  • Extend the collar to adjust the position or shape easily.
  • Replace “emon-nuki” to longer one.

and

  • Unstitch the side seam

There is a case that the collar does not fit well. if you have smaller “juban” than you, you just unstitch the side seams.

Then you can freely adjust the collar.

 

脇を割る、解く

 

 

“Koshihimo” and “datejime” belt I love

Maikichi is a “koshihimo” lover. Usually use “suzuro koshihimo” and “suzuro” belt.

They are made of special material to keep my kimono appearance beautiful.

I don’t have to tie it. That’s why I can make sharp and thin “ohashori”.

My collar does not get loose.

I use it all year round because it gives me a sense of security.

I’m attached to it.

(* This is just my personal opinion.)

 

すずろベルトと腰紐

 

Here are “suzuro koshihimo” and “suzuro belt”.

 

Related

"Nagajuban" is an under garment for kimonos. It has two types, a one-piece and two-piece one. The one piece "nagaj[…]

襦袢の着付け/put juban on

 

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