“Haneri” or a decorative collar is a strip of fabric.
It’s about 15 cm x 80 cm.
The decorative collar protecting from dirt cannot be seen much, but it plays an very important role. By changing into another one, It gives kimono a different impression.
Changing “haneri” is a must in wearing kimono. So I share you how to sew “haneri” collar.
Actually we have two ways to put “haneri” on a under garment’s collar.
Using thread and needle or a double sided tape.
If you are in the following situation, you should sew it.
- Difficult to put “haneri” by using a double sided tape.
- You want to put it neatly and firmly.
- It is your favorite and used often.
- Juban (under garment)
- Sewing kit
- A press cloth to protect a delicate “haneri” from the iron’s heat
How to sew “haneri”
If you want a different impression of kimono or “haneri” got dirty, you change it to a different one. Firstly please remove the current “haneri”.
Confirm the finish position of patterns beforehand.
Order of sewing “haneri”
Crease the seam allowance
1. Fabric easy to fray should be roughly stitched at the edge. If it not so, jump to 2.
2. Turn the “haneri” over and mark at 3 cm from the edge on the center. Do the same thing at 1 cm on the edge. If the “haneri is dark color, it should be stitched on the center line like the image. (It is pulled out later.)
3. Make a crease by ironing. Cotton and linen can be made a crease even when folded by hand. If it is a delicate fabric, cover it with a press cloth or iron on a low temperature setting.
4. Do the same thing to the opposite side. (from 1 to 3)
5. Fold the part and pin it in the seam allowance. (The back of “haneri” is facing you.)
I usually pin fabric, so that I can do it easily.
Stitch the front side of “haneri”
6. Turn the “haneri” over (now the front side is facing you) . Align the center back with the center line of “haneri”. Place the crease along the neck line and pin again. From the center to the red star, it curves outwards, so it has a slack.
7. Stitch along the neck line. Finely sew from the center back that curves outward to the red star, and the other parts are sewn roughly.
8. Just finished sewing on the front side.
Stitch the back side of “haneri”
9. Turn the “juban” over. Fold the “haneri” along the neck line and pin it. From the center back to the red star, pull slightly.
10. Pin the “haneri” and stitch like hiding the line between the collar and “juban”.
11. Part of the curved neckline should be stitched finely (from the center to the red star) . The other part should be done roughly.
12. Do the same thing to the opposite side. Then finally finished!
13. Insert “erishin”, an interlining for the collar into the back of “haneri”.
14. How is it? The red line can be seen, so please check the following.
- Can you see the seam? → The seam should’t be seen, but It is good if the seam is not noticeable.
- Are there too many wrinkles? → Try again, but a few wrinkles are okay.
15. Dressed up image.
The degree of slack and pull varies depending on the fabric. Let’s check the curve of the heel before sewing.
It is easy and stress-free to sew a “haneri” made of biased fabric.